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Firearms 101An Online Preparatory Firearm Education Course This Page Last Updated 05/07/2008
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A gun is merely a mechanical device that is used to store, aim and discharge ammunition. It allows the propelling of a small piece of metal, at a very high speed, in a generally straight line. A gun cannot fire by itself without human interaction. A gun is merely a tool in the hands of a user. They have no spirit, no will and are certainly not the evil menace that the media and the anti-gun Democrats have portrayed them to be.
Guns have been around since before the year 1300.
Any firearm will ONLY do what the user makes it do. There MUST be human interaction.
Millions of people have a fear of guns because they don't have a clue about how they work or what their capabilities and limitations are.
This fear of guns is the only thing that gun control activists have as a weapon on their side.
Placing blame on firearms for the uncivil, illegal and immoral actions of habitually violent criminals is inane, absurd and actually quite silly.
99.8% of all firearms are not used in crime in any given year. Likewise, 99.6% of handguns alone, are not used in crime in any given year.
Law abiding and honest gun owners do not commit any crimes. But most gun control laws have to be obeyed by these decent and upstanding men and women. That's unfair, unconstitutional and an extremely ineffective method at controlling acts of violent crime.
There are hundreds of types of firearms that are available, but there are only three major categories.
All firearms consist of three (3) major parts:
SHOTGUN
A shotgun is operated with two hands and is shot from the shoulder. It is designed to shoot a shell which consists of pellets of various sizes. The size of the pellet depends on what it is going to be used for. Larger size pellets could be for hunting big game such as deer. Smaller pellets are used mainly for birds or rabbits. A shotgun can also shoot a single large bullet called a slug which can weigh an ounce or more.
RIFLE
A rifle is also operated with two hands and is shot from the shoulder. It is designed to shoot a single bullet at a time. The main difference between a shotgun and a rifle is the ammunition it shoots. The shotgun ammunition is called a shell. The rifle ammunition is called a cartridge. Another difference between the two is that the inside of the rifle barrel has spiraled grooves cut into it that imparts a spin to the bullet before it exits the barrel, much like a quarterback will put a spin on a football to make it fly straight. Some shotgun barrels that are designed to shoot slugs are also cut with grooves in it to make the slug spin in the air, stabilizing its flight path.
HANDGUN
The term "handgun" was first used in the year 1388.
A handgun can be operated with one hand, although in most target shooting and all self defense shooting, two hands should be used.
The inside of the handgun barrel is also cut with grooves. These grooves are called rifling. Rifling is made up of lands and grooves in the surface of the barrel. When caliber is measured on a rifled barrel, it is measured from land to land, not from inside the grooves.
There are many, many different configurations, actions, safeties and calibers of firearms. I will not discuss them all. Instead I will simply highlight a few of the more popular ones.
(The action is all the moving parts of the firearm that allow the loading, firing and unloading of the ammunition.)
Pump Shotgun- This shotgun is very popular. It chambers a shell with the cycling of the forearm of the gun in most models, and requires the shooter to "pump" the forearm to eject a used shell and chamber a fresh one.
Semi-Automatic Shotgun- This shotgun is also very popular. With this
firearm the shooter fills a spring-loaded magazine of various type and manually chambers a
shell. When the first shell is fired, some of the pressure created
from the shell is used to cycle the action, thereby ejecting the used shell
and chambering a fresh one automatically.
The shooter must pull the trigger
one time for firing every shell.
Bolt Action Rifle- This rifle works very similar to the pump shotgun but it uses side mounted device to extract the used cartridge and chamber a fresh one.
PLEASE
READ THIS
Please take note of the following images and the different parts of the various
firearms. This information will help prepare you for your actual gun
safety course.
Much of your classroom time will be learning the different parts of firearms,
how they work, what they do and the loading and unloading procedures of each.
Please make certain that your Certified Firearm Instructor or Police Officer is using
"dummy" ammunition for the loading and unloading procedures in the
classroom.
If your classroom instructor is using live ammunition for this demonstration,
he/she is violating the Instructor's Creed and he/she should be firmly
rebuked for such action.
Live ammunition should not be used until all classroom activity has been
completed and you are at the range for your required range work.
Please take note of the different parts
and their names.
Semi-Automatic Rifle- This type of rifle was invented in 1890. It uses the same principle as the shotgun mentioned above and also needs human interaction for each and every shot. The semi-automatic rifle requires a trigger pull for each shot. This is not an "Assault Rifle". Technically, an "Assault Rifle" is a fully automatic machine gun.
See this great YouTube video on operating a semi-automatic rifle by CavalryArms.
Machine Gun- This firearm has been heavily restricted and taxed since the National Firearms Act of 1934. The general public are for all intents and purposes not allowed to own this type of firearm without jumping through hoops and dodging miles of red tape, registration schemes and fees. This firearm will fire and reload itself as long as the trigger is pulled and until the magazine is empty of cartridges.
See this video of a machine pistol. A fully automatic handgun. (It will take a while to download and play, it is over three megabytes in size 3MB+.)
Revolver- This type of handgun uses a round cylinder with holes punched in it that are designed to hold the cartridges. The cylinder revolves to bring a fresh cartridge under the firing pin.

Please take note of the different parts
and their names.

Please take note of the different parts
and their names.
There are many types of actions. The action is the moving parts of the gun that allow loading, firing and unloading of the gun.
In a single-action gun, the trigger performs a single action, the releasing of the hammer, which makes contact with the firing pin, which discharges the primer, which ignites the powder charge.
In a double-action gun, the trigger can both cock the hammer and fire the cartridge, performing two actions. There is also a "double-action only" type of action where the trigger both cocks the hammer and fires the cartridge with every pull. In a double-action only handgun, there is usually no external hammer spur that the shooter can pull back to cock the gun.
In a semi-automatic pistol, single-action and double-action refer to the first shot only. After the first shot, the recoiling slide cocks the hammer. In a "double-action only" semi-automatic, the slide does not cock the hammer, the trigger performs this function.
There are many types of rifle and shotgun actions such as bolt-action, lever action, semi-automatic, full-automatic, top break (hinge), pump action, falling block and rolling block.
If you are still confused about the actions in different types of guns, use the feedback form on the "Ask Marc" page and ask away.
Your Certified Firearm Instructor will fully explain these action issues. It is essential that you are comfortable with this information. If you have remaining questions, don't head out to the range until you completely understand what you will be asked to do.
Loading and unloading procedures can vary somewhat from model to model, however in general there are certain procedures that should be followed:
The first step is to point the barrel in a safe direction and keep it pointed in a safe direction throughout the whole loading or unloading process.
Secondly, keep your finger off the trigger and put any safeties on that might be present. Remember that mechanical safeties are ONLY designed to reduce accidents and cannot completely be relied upon to make the gun inoperable.
The third step depends on the type of gun being used. In a revolver, just flip out the cylinder with the cylinder release latch and using your middle finger and ring finger. Then insert the cartridges into the cylinder to load. To unload, dump the ammo or empty cases into your hand by tipping the gun up and pushing the ejector rod on the front of the cylinder. Watch out for that muzzle, be aware of where you are pointing that barrel. If the revolver is a single action revolver, there will be a loading/unloading port on the right side of the cylinder, through which the cartridges or cases and inserted or extracted.
It is important to
note here that many accidental deaths have occurred because of faulty loading
and unloading
procedures.
In a semi-automatic pistol or rifle with a removable magazine, you must pull out the magazine first.
To unload the semi-automatic, remove the magazine first. After removing the magazine, cycle the action by pulling back the slide and catch the ejected cartridge in your hand.
Note: IF YOU REVERSE THE TWO STEPS ABOVE, YOU WILL STILL HAVE A LOADED FIREARM!!!
Keep that finger off the trigger throughout the entire process!!!
To load the semi-automatic, insert the cartridges into the magazine, insert the magazine into the grip of the handgun and then retract and release the slide to load the chamber.
The semi-automatic rifle with removable magazine loads the very same way.
With a rifle containing a non-removable magazine, you should hold the barrel in a safe direction, keep your finger off the trigger, engage any safeties that are present and cycle the action until the firearm is empty. Loading procedures can vary greatly between models. Please make sure you follow the manual's instructions.
It is of paramount importance that you condition yourself to place your finger along the frame of the gun during loading and unloading. There is a natural tendency to place the index finger inside the trigger guard. This tendency MUST be avoided.
You will be given ample time to practice the loading and unloading procedures for different types of firearms while in the classroom.
It is very important that you are familiar with these procedures before you head to the range.
Don't allow your instructor to bring you out to the range with live ammunition until you are comfortable with the loading and unloading procedures that you will be asked to perform.
Practicing loading and unloading procedures under close supervision, with inert or "dummy" ammunition is an important aspect of the classroom work.
You should make sure that you have ample opportunity to try out the loading and unloading procedures for each type of firearm that is present until you are comfortable that you can do it correctly with live ammunition on the range.
Ammunition comes in countless varieties. It can be either a shotgun shell, a rifle cartridge or a handgun cartridge. Sometimes ammunition is erroneously called "bullets". A bullet is just one of the components of a cartridge. There are two types of cartridges, they can be either centerfire or rimfire. This depends on the location of the primer. In a centerfire cartridge, the primer is located in the center of the base. In a rimfire cartridge, the primer is located in the rim around the base of the case.
There are four (4) components to a cartridge.
The case is the major part of the cartridge and contains the
other three and is mostly made from brass. Some manufacturers use an
aluminum alloy.
The primer is located in the bottom of the cartridge and is
used to ignite the powder.
The powder is contained within the case.
The bullet is seated in the mouth of the case.
Caliber or gauge is a measurement of the projectile and barrel diameter. Normally ammunition is intended for a specific caliber of firearm. Firing ammunition of a different caliber or gauge in a firearm can be very dangerous and can cause serious injury or death. There are some ammunition calibers that can be safely fired in other calibers, but you have to be very careful that they are compatible. One instance that quickly comes to mind is that a .38 Special cartridge can be safely fired from a .357 Magnum revolver.
The caliber or gauge of a gun is usually stamped on the gun's barrel and on the bottom of the cartridge's case or shell.
Ammunition is designated as either caliber or gauge. A cartridge is designated in hundredths of an inch, thousandths of an inch or in millimeters. The caliber is measured across the bottom or base of the bullet.
Shotgun ammunition is designated in gauge. Here is how the gauge designation works:
If one takes a full pound of lead and forms the lead into 12 perfectly round balls. One of those balls is said to be 12 gauge and would fit into a 12 gauge barrel. Therefore, the higher the gauge designation is, the smaller in diameter the barrel is. There is also a shotgun that is designated in thousandths of an inch and that is the .410 gauge shotgun. The .410 gauge shotgun is the smallest shotgun available. Therefore a 10 gauge shotgun shoots a very large projectile or shell and a 28 gauge shotgun is quite a bit smaller in diameter.
A shotgun shell consists of a plastic hull with a metallic bottom. In the metallic bottom of the shell is a primer which is used to ignite the powder. After the powder is a wad and after the wad is the pellets of lead or steel.
The shotgun shell consists of five (5) different parts:
Case or Hull The case
is the plastic hull that contains all other components.
Primer The
primer is in the metallic base of the shot shell and is designed to ignite
the powder charge within the hull.
Powder Charge The
gunpowder charge goes into the primed case first. It is designed to
burn up very, very quickly.
Wad The
wad is usually plastic and it designed to protect the pellets until they
leave the barrel and to ensure that the propellant forces the shot down the
barrel efficiently.
Shot Pellets or Slug This of course is the lead or steel shot that is forced down and out the barrel at very high speed.
When a cartridge is fired, the firing pin from the firearm hits the primer with enough force to ignite it.
The flame created by the primer goes through the bottom of the case in a hole called the "flash hole".
The flame then ignites the powder within the case or hull.
The powder then burns almost instantly creating a tremendous amount of pressure inside the case.
The pressure within the case at this point can reach more than 20 tons per square inch. This colossal amount of pressure forces the bullet out of the case and down the barrel at very high velocity. Some bullets can move a mile in less than two (2) seconds. WOW!!
The bullet can then fly as much as five (5) miles away depending on the caliber, bullet and powder used in addition to the elevation at which the gun is fired. WOW!!
It is important to note that the ammunition does not explode under normal circumstances. The massive pressure that is created by the firing of the cartridge is used to propel the bullet. Ammunition purchased at a retail outlet is normally very safe.
There is no explosion, only because the lead or steel projectile is moved down and out the barrel using the tremendous amount of pressure and hot gas.
If the bullet were to be welded into the case, or the bullet was immovable, the cartridge would explode.
The actual shooting of a gun at a target seems like a very simple act in the movies or on television dramas.
However, in real target shooting, there are six (6) basic fundamentals to keep in mind during shooting.
Body Position
Grip
Sight Alignment
Breath Control
Trigger Squeeze
Follow Through
Body Position- Body position is the first basic I will discuss. Be sure to keep your feet about shoulder width apart for stability. You may want to shift some of your weight to the balls of your feet and not your heels. Choose whether you are going to try a one-hand position, two-hand position or a bench rest position.
Assume a comfortable and relaxed position. Align your body with the target. Many people think they should force the gun to the target, but it is much better to have your body in the proper position before taking aim.
Try this:
Take an empty gun and assume a firing position. Align your gun with the target. Then close your eyes for 30 seconds. Now take a look at where your gun is on the target. Chances are good that it moved. Now adjust your body position back to the target, by moving your feet. Now try it again until your body is pointing quite naturally at the target.
Grip- Taking a proper grip and maintaining that same grip throughout your firing is an essential ingredient to consistency. Place the handgun in your shooting hand with your non-shooting hand. Push the gun into the V created by your thumb and index finger. Keep the shooting hand as high on the backstrap as possible. When cocking a hammer, use the non-shooting hand thumb, because it will disturb your grip otherwise. Keep your non-shooting hand wrapped around your shooting hand and clamp your non-shooting thumb down on your shooting hand thumb. Consistency is essential here because if you change your grip, your bullet placement will not be uniform.
Sight Alignment- The central aspect of aiming is proper sight alignment. Sight alignment is the relationship between four (4) things. Your eyes, the rear sight, the front sight and your target. Center the front sight into the notch of the rear sight and align the top of the front sight with the top of the rear sight. Next, align the "sight picture" with your target. Maintaining this sight alignment or "sight picture" while pulling the trigger is the key to a proper shot.
Breath Control- Breath control seems like it won't matter that much. And it really won't matter until you have a shooting contest with a buddy and he is three points ahead of you!!!
Controlling your breathing minimizes your body movement during sight alignment. As you breathe, your body rises and falls with each breath.
You should take a normal breath, then exhale slowly, just as your lungs empty is the best time to take your shot. Try to take your shot within 5 to 8 seconds. Any longer than 8 seconds and more body tremors may be introduced due to oxygen deprivation.
Trigger Squeeze- Trigger squeeze, trigger pull and trigger control essentially all mean the same thing. It is the smooth and consistent pull on the trigger while maintaining proper sight alignment. Nobody knows exactly when the trigger will "break" and make the hammer fall. Even after years of practice with the same gun, it will still be a surprise, although after much practice, you can get a "feel" for when it might go. If you feel that the sights are aligned on the target as you would like, then squeeze a bit harder. However, if the sight alignment swings off the intended target, you should lighten up a bit on the trigger. Nobody, no matter how good they think they are can maintain perfect sight alignment all the time. It is not physically possible. Practice, practice and practice.
Follow Through- Follow through??? What is follow through???
Follow through can be compared to a bowler when throwing a ball down the alley, the bowler's arm continues through the throw.
Or to a pool player, when he strokes the cue ball, the tip of the cue goes right through where the cue ball used to be.
Follow through in shooting is somewhat similar. In follow through, you want to maintain the proper body position, grip and sight alignment until after the shot has left the barrel.
This follow through helps to make sure that the trajectory of the bullet is not affected by any extra movement on your part which might affect the path of the bullet.
In pool, if the shooter stands up too quickly after taking his shot, it might affect where the tip hits the cue ball. In pool, shooters maintain that post-stroke position for a moment until they make certain the cue ball is on its way. It is precisely the same principle for shooting a gun.
Inevitably, everyone who regularly fires a gun will run into a jam or malfunction at some point.
Many, many accidents occur while attempting to clear a jammed firearm.
It is essential to review and follow all three (3) safe gun handling rules first.
ALWAYS point the barrel of the gun in a safe direction. A safe direction is defined as a direction where if the gun discharged, nobody would get hurt. The best direction to point a gun is generally at the ground and to the side. This is the Golden Rule of Gun Safety. If everyone followed this one rule, it would bring an end to accidental firearm related deaths.
ALWAYS keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire. There is a natural tendency to place the index finger inside the trigger guard. This MUST be avoided. Condition yourself to place your shooting hand index finger along the side of the frame.
ALWAYS keep the action open and the gun unloaded until you are ready to use it. The action is the moving parts of the gun that allow loading, unloading, firing and extraction of the empty case or shell. If you are not ready to use it, keep the action open and unloaded.
If the jam is in a semi-automatic pistol or rifle (which are most common), follow the above gun handling rules, put on the safety catch, button or lever, then remove the magazine if possible, now open the action and lock it open. Now you can safely work on the jam from here. The chances are good that removing the magazine and retracting the slide will fix the jam in most cases.
If you have a case that is seated too deeply in the chamber so that the extractor does not grab it, you should follow all the above procedures, then gently pry out the offending case with a miniature screwdriver or some such device being careful not to damage the loading ramp or the breech face.
Reloading ammunition is an enjoyable hobby. It can really be rewarding too. The money saved by reloading your own ammunition can be substantial.
I will not even attempt to show the reader how to reload their own ammunition here. But I will say a few things about it.
One can only reload centerfire ammunition. The .22 caliber rimfire ammunition cannot safely be reloaded.
There are hundreds of different cases. Each one has an identifying stamp on the bottom, with the caliber of the cartridge. If there is no caliber stamped on the bottom of the case, that means that the case originated from the military or a foreign country. Be careful when using cartridges with no caliber head stamp.
There are over a hundred different smokeless powders that are available to the reloader. Each and every one will burn at a different rate. Single base powders are made primarily from nitrocellulose. Double base powders are made with both nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin. There many types of powder also, such as tubular, ball and flake.
Powder and bullets are weighed using a measurement called grains. There are 6985 grains in one pound. Some people round this number off and say that there are 7000 grains to the pound.
Grains are used to measure the weight of both the powder charge and the bullet.
A normal powder charge can vary from two or three grains up to 50 or more.
Some pistol ammunition powder charges can be three (3) grains or maybe a bit less and rifle cartridges can use more than fifty (50) grains.
A normal bullet weight can vary from 40 grains in a .22 Long Rifle to over 500 grains in a big game rifle.
There are also many different bullet styles and weights that one can use for each caliber. For each different bullet weight, the amount of powder to use can change slightly.
There are more than a dozen different types of primers too!!
Make no mistake about this fact:
If a cartridge is loaded improperly, with the wrong case, powder, bullet, primer combination, instant death can occur.
It is absolutely essential that if you choose to reload your own cartridges, you follow the prescribed ammunition tables for weights and amounts.
Make sure that when you reload, you stay as organized as possible and tenaciously stick to the prescribed procedures. Experimenting with reloads can be deadly if you don't know what you are doing.
Never allow yourself to become distracted or disoriented when reloading your own ammunition.
Regular cleaning is important in order for your gun to operate correctly and safely. Taking proper care of it will also maintain its value and extend its life. Your gun should be cleaned after every outing.
A gun brought out of prolonged storage should also be cleaned before shooting. Accumulated moisture and dirt, or solidified grease, burnt powder residue and oil, can prevent the gun from operating properly.
Before cleaning your gun, make absolutely sure that it is unloaded.
The gun's action should be open during the cleaning process. Also be sure that no ammunition is present.
There are many manufacturers of firearm cleaning kits and they are sold in most department stores and sporting goods stores. Follow the directions for cleaning that are specific to your particular model of firearm and the directions from the cleaning kit that you have chosen.
If possible, clean the gun's barrel from the rear to prevent any damage to the muzzle end of the barrel. Damage to the muzzle end of the barrel can affect accuracy.
Generally, the first step is to put cleaning solvent on a brush and plunge it in and out of the gun's barrel as many as 5 to 10 strokes. Once all the stubborn fouling is out, follow up with a few cotton patches soaked in solvent until they begin to become noticeably less dirty. Next, follow up with a clean patch, then an oiled patch.
After the barrel is cleaned and oiled, you should follow that with another solvent soaked patch on the surfaces of the firearm, cleaning up all the fouling around the breech or cylinder. Follow that with a clean patch, then an oiled one. You may use an oiled patch on the exterior of your firearm or you may choose a silicone impregnated cloth.
In a semi-automatic, it is important that the feeding ramp be kept clean, along with the extractor and bolt face. Occasionally, you may want to take the firearm apart for a more thorough cleaning. I think that taking your firearm apart for a proper cleaning should be done at least once a year.
A mistake that many beginners make is that they try to take their gun apart too far. If you disassemble the gun to clean it, make sure you follow the directions in the manual. If you take the gun apart too far, only an expert may be able to reassemble it.
Any questions?
I want to take this opportunity to thank you for taking this Basic Firearm Safety and Education Course.
Remember, this course is only designed to help prepare you for an actual in-person course and is not designed to replace such a course.
An actual Basic Firearm Education Course is designed to take at least eight (8) hours to complete, including at least a few hours of actual "on the range" gun handling and actual target shooting.
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mail to:
Marc H. Richardson
P.O. Box 424
Shapleigh, ME 04076-0424
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